Khoton and Khurgan Lakes

Khoton and Khurgan lie end to end in a high Altai valley, joined by a short river and set at around two thousand metres with mountains on both sides and larch forest on the northern slopes, which is unusual in a country that is mostly treeless steppe. The water is cold and clear and holds grayling and osman, and fishing is a common reason for visiting. Kazakh and Tuvan families graze the shores in summer, moving up as the snow retreats, and staying with a herding family is the standard way to experience the area. Petroglyphs are carved on rocks around the lakes, part of the wider Altai rock art tradition. The drive from Olgii is long and rough, crossing passes and rivers, and the reward is a landscape that feels closer to Siberia than to the Gobi.

What you actually see

• The two lakes - linked alpine waters below the Altai peaks.
• Larch forest - woodland on the northern slopes, rare in Mongolia.
• Herder camps - Kazakh and Tuvan families with livestock on the shores.
• Rock carvings - petroglyphs on outcrops around the valley.

When to go

June to September; the passes are snowbound outside that and the drive impossible. July and August are warmest, though nights are cold at altitude. The valley empties as herders move down in autumn.

Honest expectations

The drive is six hours or more of rough track and river crossings, and vehicles break. There is no fixed accommodation; visitors camp or stay in ger camps and herder homes. Mosquitoes are severe in July near the water. Permits may be needed for areas close to the border.

Nearby

Tavan Bogd and the Potanin glacier lie north; Olgii is east.