Kosrae

Easternmost of the federation's states, Kosrae sleeps under its forested peaks - the ridgeline read as a reclining woman by island tradition - with the nation's calmest arrangement: hard-coral reefs in near-pristine grades for divers, the mangrove channels kayak-quiet, Lelu's ruined walled city (the medieval-era basalt capital, Nan Madol's lesser-known sibling) mossy behind the causeway town, and a Sabbath observance that stills the whole island each Sunday into church song and family tables. Tourism runs at a handful of lodges' scale; the welcome and the water both reward the flight's commitment.

Background

Kosrae was once known as Kusaie or Strong's Island, and the main island's traditional name, Ualung, means high island. With 110 square kilometres of land, it is the smallest state of the federation by area and also by population. The highest point is Mount Finkol, at 634 metres, and Tofol is the capital. The city of Leluh lasted from about 1250 to 1850 AD and at its height had about 1,500 people across some 27 hectares. The Spanish navigator Álvaro de Saavedra made the first recorded Western sighting on 14 September 1529. In June 1824 the ship La Coquille, under Louis-Isidore Duperrey, spent ten days at anchor here. Congregationalists set up the first mission post in 1852.

Source: Wikipedia, "Kosrae"

Highlights

• The pristine reefs - hard-coral grades divers whisper about.
• Lelu's walls - the basalt city behind the causeway.
• The sleeping ridgeline - the lady read against the sky.
• The Sabbath stillness - Sunday's island-wide hush.

When to go

December to April with the trades; Sundays belong to church and quiet - plan the stillness in, not around.

Practical notes

Flights are few and onward plans hostage to them; services are small-scale and conservative custom (dress, Sunday conduct) is the island's frame.

Nearby

Pohnpei by island-hopper and the open Pacific's plenty.

Key facts