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Meridiela.

Charrería

The national sport of Mexico, a set of horsemanship events descended from working hacienda skills, recognised by UNESCO in 2016.

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Charrería

Illustrative image - a scene in the spirit of the place, not a photograph of it. Real photos are below.

UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage

WhereJalisco, Zacatecas and nationwide
Nearest cityGuadalajara
Best seasonYear-round; September for the national championship
Time to allowAn afternoon
Getting thereLienzos charros across central and northern Mexico; Guadalajara has weekly events
EntryTickets inexpensive

Charrería grew out of the daily work of the haciendas, where cattle had to be caught, thrown and moved by riders, and it was formalised after the land reforms of the twentieth century into a competitive sport with nine set events for men and the escaramuza, a precision riding routine performed by women in side-saddle and long dresses. It is contested by teams in a keyhole-shaped arena called a lienzo, scored on style as much as success, and the dress, the saddlery and the reata rope work are all part of the judging. UNESCO inscribed it as intangible heritage in 2016. Guadalajara holds events most Sundays, and the national championship each September is the year's fixture.

What you actually see

  • The nine suertes - the set events, from roping to riding an unbroken horse.
  • The escaramuza - the women's precision side-saddle riding routine.
  • The reata work - rope handling judged on style as much as result.
  • The lienzo - the keyhole-shaped arena the whole sport is built around.

When to go

Events run through the year at lienzos across central and northern Mexico, most often on Sunday afternoons, and Guadalajara is the most reliable place to find one. The national championship in September is the biggest gathering. Local tourist offices and charro associations post schedules.

Honest expectations

Some events involve roping horses and cattle at speed, and animal welfare criticism of certain manoeuvres is longstanding; the rules have changed over the years and some events are banned in parts of the United States. It is worth knowing that before buying a ticket. Events are long, seating is basic and there is little English explanation.

Nearby

Guadalajara and Zapopan hold weekly events; the tequila country is an hour away.

What to pack for Charrería

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Opening times, ticket prices and seasonal closures change - check the official source before you go: official site.

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