Golden Bay and Għajn Tuffieħa

Malta is mostly rock, so its handful of proper sand beaches matter, and the best pair sit side by side on the northwest coast separated by a headland. Golden Bay is the accessible one, a broad crescent of reddish-gold sand with a hotel above it, sunbeds, kiosks and a bus stop, busy all summer and easy for families. Over the ridge, Għajn Tuffieħa is reached by descending nearly two hundred steps from the clifftop car park, and that modest barrier keeps it noticeably quieter, wilder and undeveloped, backed by clay slopes and scrub rather than buildings. Both face west, which makes them among the best places in Malta to watch the sun go down into the sea. A coastal path runs along the clifftops between them and on towards the tower at Għajn Znuber.

What you actually see

• Golden Bay - the wide accessible beach with facilities and a bus stop.
• Għajn Tuffieħa - the quieter neighbour down nearly two hundred steps.
• The clifftop path - the walk along the headland between the two bays.
• Sunset - the west-facing view as the sun drops into the sea.

When to go

May to October is the swimming season, with the sea warmest from July into October; the beaches are packed on summer weekends and much calmer on weekday mornings or in the shoulder months. Sunset is worth staying for at any time of year.

Honest expectations

Għajn Tuffieħa's steps are a genuine climb back up in heat carrying beach kit, which is the whole reason it stays quieter. Both beaches have strong undertow in certain conditions and there are flag warnings that should be taken seriously. Golden Bay in August is crowded to the point of unpleasantness. Parking fills early in summer.

Nearby

Mellieħa Bay and Popeye Village are north; Mdina is inland to the south.