Tenom

Tenom sits in a valley in the Sabah interior and is the terminus of the North Borneo Railway, which reaches it through the Padas gorge - the most interesting stretch of railway in Malaysia, a narrow track cut into the wall above a river used for white-water rafting, taken by a small diesel railcar. The town is Murut country and grows coffee: Tenom coffee is robusta roasted in a wok over wood with margarine and sugar in the traditional method, giving a dark, heavy cup, and the old roasteries in town sell direct and let you watch. The Sabah Agricultural Park outside holds a large orchid collection including native Borneo species, along with crop gardens and a museum. The Murut Cultural Centre is at Kemabong to the south.

What you actually see

• The Padas gorge railway - the railcar run along the river wall from Beaufort.
• Wok-roasted coffee - Tenom robusta roasted over wood in the old roasteries.
• The agricultural park - orchid collections including native Borneo species.
• Murut country - the cultural centre and villages of the interior south.

When to go

March to September; the railcar runs to a limited timetable. A day.

Honest expectations

The railcar service is infrequent and has been suspended at times - check before planning around it. The town is small with basic facilities. Rafting on the Padas needs booking separately.

Nearby

Beaufort is down the line; Keningau and the Crocker Range are north.