Nosy Ve

Nosy Ve is a flat sandy island a short sail from Anakao with no permanent inhabitants, a fringing reef and one thing that makes it worth the crossing: the only breeding colony of red-tailed tropicbirds in Madagascar, white birds with long red tail streamers that nest in low scrub and allow close approach. The colony is protected by fady, local prohibitions, which have kept it safe longer than any formal designation, and visitors are asked to keep distance and stay on the paths. The island also has a history as an early European trading and burial spot, and there are graves in the sand. Snorkelling on the reef is good and the water is clear. Trips are arranged in Anakao with the fishermen's association, and most last a morning.

What you actually see

• Red-tailed tropicbirds - the country's only breeding colony, nesting in scrub.
• Reef snorkelling - clear shallow water off the sand.
• Sailing pirogues - the outrigger crossing from Anakao.
• Old graves - traces of early European presence in the dunes.

When to go

April to November for calm seas. Tropicbirds breed through much of the year with a peak in the dry months. Trips depend entirely on wind and are cancelled when the channel is rough.

Honest expectations

The island is small, flat and completely without shade or facilities. Nesting birds are easily disturbed and approaching them for photographs harms the colony. The crossing is in an open sailing pirogue and gets wet. Fees and prohibitions are set by the local association and should be followed exactly.

Nearby

Anakao is the departure point; Toliara lies north.