Diego Suarez

Diego Suarez, officially Antsiranana, sits on a bay so large and so well enclosed that it has been described as one of the finest natural harbours anywhere, with a rock islet called the Sugarloaf standing in the middle of it. The town above is a grid of wide streets with colonnaded buildings from the French naval period, most of them peeling, some collapsed, and a long central avenue that fills in the evening. The population is mixed, with Comorian, Indian and Malagasy communities, and the food reflects it. Wind blows almost constantly, which keeps the heat down and makes the coast east of town a kitesurfing centre. The city is the base for the whole northern tip: Ankarana, Montagne d'Ambre, the Emerald Sea and the three bays all lie within a couple of hours.

What you actually see

• The great bay - the harbour and the Sugarloaf islet from the shore.
• Colonial streets - peeling colonnades and shuttered facades.
• The evening avenue - the main street when the town comes out.
• A mixed port culture - Comorian, Indian and Malagasy communities.

When to go

April to November. Wind is strongest from May to September, which suits kitesurfing and makes the heat manageable. Cyclones threaten between January and March.

Honest expectations

Much of the old architecture is in poor repair and there are few formal sights in the city itself; it is a base rather than a destination. Flights are limited and the road in from the south is long and rough. Street lighting is patchy and care is needed after dark.

Nearby

Ramena and the three bays are east; Montagne d'Ambre and Ankarana lie south.