Vilnius Old Town

Vilnius has one of the biggest surviving baroque old towns in this part of Europe, a warm-toned tangle of churches, hidden courtyards and cobbled lanes spread below the hill of Gediminas. Less polished and more lived-in than some, it rewards wandering, with a great church around almost every corner and the self-declared artists' republic of Uzupis just across the river.

What you actually see

• Cathedral Square - the white cathedral and bell tower below Gediminas hill.
• St Anne's and the Bernardine church - the pair of red-brick Gothic churches by the river.
• The Gate of Dawn - the surviving city gate and its miraculous Madonna chapel.
• Baroque churches and courtyards - dozens of them, from St Casimir's to the university's.

When to go

Summer for terraces and long evenings; December for a lovely Christmas market on Cathedral Square. Early mornings give you the courtyards and lanes almost empty.

Honest expectations

It is large and rambling, so accept you cannot see every church and just wander. Parts are still gently faded rather than perfectly restored, which many find part of the charm. The cobbles and slopes are hard on wheels and ankles.

Nearby

Uzupis is a two-minute walk across the Vilnele; Gediminas Tower stands above the cathedral for the view.