Carnikava Lamprey

Lamprey, nēģi, are jawless fish that run up rivers from the sea, and the Gauja mouth at Carnikava has been the principal Latvian fishery for them for centuries, worked with traps and weirs set in the river through the autumn and winter run. Carnikava lamprey hold a European protected geographical indication, one of very few Latvian products to do so. They are grilled over embers and either eaten hot or set in their own jelly in jars, which is how they are sold in markets across the country, and the taste is strong and oily and divides people sharply. The town holds a lamprey festival in August and a small museum covers the fishery.

What you actually see

• The river traps - the weirs and equipment set in the Gauja for the run.
• Grilled lamprey - the fish cooked over embers and served hot.
• Jellied lamprey - the jarred product sold in markets.
• The August festival - the town's lamprey celebration.

When to go

August to January for the fishing season, when fresh lamprey are available; the August festival opens it. Outside the season the jarred product is sold year round. The Riga central market carries them.

Honest expectations

Lamprey look like eels with sucker mouths and their appearance puts many people off before the taste does. The flavour is strong, oily and not to everyone's liking. The town is small with limited facilities. The fishery is seasonal.

Nearby

Riga lies south; Saulkrasti is north up the coast.