Marakei Atoll

Marakei is an almost perfectly circular atoll north of Abaiang, and it has a custom that visitors are expected to follow: four shrines stand at points around the island, each associated with a spirit woman, and anyone arriving is expected to visit all four in order, leaving tobacco or a small offering, before doing anything else. Failing to do it is held to bring bad luck. The atoll is around ten kilometres from end to end and a ring road of about twenty-six kilometres runs the whole way round it, which is what makes the shrine circuit practical.

What you actually see

• The four shrines - the sites arriving visitors are expected to greet.
• The circular atoll - an unusually regular ring of land.
• The custom - the observance expected of everyone who lands.
• The lagoon - the enclosed water at the centre of the ring.

When to go

April to October is the drier and calmer season. Flights and boats are irregular. The custom applies whenever you arrive.

Honest expectations

The shrine custom is taken seriously and should be followed with a local guide rather than skipped or treated lightly. Transport is irregular. There is no accommodation beyond village arrangements.

Nearby

Abaiang is south, and Butaritari is north.