Tabaka

Tabaka sits on deposits of soapstone, a rock soft enough to cut with a knife when freshly quarried and hardening as it dries, and the whole village works it. Men dig the stone by hand from shallow pits, carvers shape it with knives and files, and women do most of the sanding, dyeing and polishing, with families specialising in particular forms: animals, chess sets, bowls, eggs, abstract figures. The stone comes in pink, cream, grey and black, and the dyed pieces get their colour from soaking. Almost every curio stall in Kenya sells Tabaka work, so seeing where it comes from changes how you look at it. Workshops and cooperatives welcome visitors, demonstrate the stages and sell direct at prices far below the tourist shops. The village is a working place rather than a visitor attraction, which is its appeal.

The main sights

• The quarries - shallow hand-dug pits where the stone is cut.
• Carving workshops - knives and files shaping the soft stone.
• Finishing work - sanding, dyeing and polishing, mostly by women.
• Direct sales - buying from the makers rather than through resellers.

When to go

Dry seasons for the roads, which are poor in the wet. Weekdays are when work happens; weekends are quieter. Allow time to walk between workshops rather than stopping at the first.

Good to know

The dust from carving and sanding is significant and workers often lack protection, which is uncomfortable to witness. Roads to the village are rough. Expect to be shown many shops and to be asked to buy; agree prices politely. There are no visitor facilities as such.

Nearby

Kisii town is northeast; Ruma National Park and the lake lie west.