Lamu Old Town

Lamu Old Town, on an island off Kenya's northern coast, is the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa, a UNESCO site that has changed little in centuries. A labyrinth of narrow lanes winds between coral-stone and mangrove-timber houses with intricately carved wooden doors, and with no cars on the island, life moves by donkey and by the wooden dhows that have plied these waters for a thousand years, in a timeless, deeply atmospheric blend of African, Arab and Indian cultures.

What you actually see

• The old town lanes - the maze of coral-stone houses and carved doors.
• The dhows - the traditional sailing boats on the water.
• The waterfront and fort - the seafront, the old fort and market.
• The car-free island - the donkeys and slow rhythm of life.

When to go

December to March for the driest, most pleasant weather; the long rains of April and May are best avoided. The Maulidi festival and the annual Lamu cultural festival and dhow races are vibrant times to visit.

Honest expectations

It is remote, reached by a flight and then a boat, and facilities are simple. As a conservative Muslim community, modest dress is appreciated, especially away from the beach. Note that travel advisories have at times cautioned about the wider far-north coast near the Somali border, so check current advice. The town itself is enchanting and atmospheric.

Nearby

The beaches of Shela and the wider Lamu archipelago are nearby.