Astana

Astana, Kazakhstan's purpose-built capital on the vast northern steppe, is one of the world's most striking modern cities, a showcase of bold, futuristic architecture that has risen dramatically from the plains since the 1990s. Its skyline is a gallery of eye-catching landmarks by famous architects: the golden-globed Bayterek Tower that symbolises the city, the great glass Khan Shatyr tent, the Pyramid of Peace, gleaming ministries and the vast Nur-Astana Mosque, a spectacular, if surreal, statement of national ambition.

History

Centuries ago the Bozok settlement, a fortress on the steppe branch of the Silk Road in the 12th to 14th centuries, stood on the site. The settlement of Akmoly was founded on the Ishim river on 18 June 1830 by Fyodor Shubin and became the town of Akmolinsk in 1832, and the plan of the modern capital was guided by the architect Kisho Kurokawa (Wikipedia, Astana).

The main sights

• Bayterek Tower - the golden-orbed symbol of the city, with a viewing deck.
• Khan Shatyr - the giant tent-shaped mall and leisure centre.
• The Pyramid of Peace - the Norman Foster glass pyramid.
• Nur-Astana Mosque - the grand mosque on the boulevard.

When to go

May to September, the short warm season, is by far the best, as Astana endures one of the coldest capital-city winters on earth, with temperatures plunging far below freezing on the exposed steppe. The modern landmarks are floodlit and striking after dark in the milder months.

Practical notes

Astana is a young, planned city of grand, spread-out landmarks that can feel showy, sterile and empty, more an architectural statement than an organic, atmospheric place, and its winters are brutally cold. It divides opinion. As a spectacle of bold, futuristic architecture and national ambition risen from the bare steppe, though, it is genuinely fascinating and unlike anywhere else.

Nearby

The steppe and the Korgalzhyn wetlands, home to flamingos, lie beyond the city.