Aksu-Zhabagly

Established in 1926, Aksu-Zhabagly is the oldest protected area in Central Asia, covering the western end of the Tien Shan where mountain steppe rises into juniper forest and alpine meadow. Its centrepiece is the Aksu canyon, cut hundreds of metres deep, with a viewpoint on the rim and a hard descent to the river. In April the lower meadows flower with wild tulips, including Greig's tulip with its broad red blooms, one of the ancestors of the garden tulip, and the display draws botanists specifically. Snow leopard, argali, ibex and bear live in the reserve, though sightings of the cat are effectively a matter of camera traps rather than luck. Village homestays in Zhabagly are the standard base.

What you actually see

• Aksu canyon - a deep gorge with a rim viewpoint and a steep descent.
• Wild tulip meadows - Greig's tulip and others flowering in April.
• Juniper forest and alpine meadow - the altitude bands above the steppe.
• Village homestays in Zhabagly - the base for guided trips into the reserve.

When to go

April to early May for the tulips, which is a short and weather-dependent window. June to September for walking and horse trips in the high meadows. Winter closes most of the reserve.

Honest expectations

Entry requires a permit and a guide, arranged through homestays or the reserve office, and cannot be done spontaneously. The tulip season is brief and varies by up to a couple of weeks with the weather. Big cat sightings essentially do not happen; anyone coming for snow leopard will leave disappointed. Accommodation is simple village homestays.

Nearby

Shymkent is the nearest city; Turkestan lies northwest.