Yokohama Chinatown

Yokohama opened to foreign trade in 1859 and Chinese merchants and compradors came with the Western trading houses, settling in a quarter that grew into what is now the largest Chinatown in Japan and one of the largest anywhere - roughly six hundred restaurants and shops in a few blocks, entered through ten painted gates set at the compass points. The food is mostly Cantonese with Shanghainese, Sichuan and Taiwanese places among it, and the street specialities are what people actually eat: nikuman, large steamed pork buns sold from windows and eaten walking, along with xiaolongbao, roast chestnuts and sesame balls. Kanteibyo, a temple to Guan Yu rebuilt several times since 1873, is dense with carving and gilding. Chinese New Year in January or February brings lion and dragon dances and firecrackers through the streets, which is the busiest and best time.

What you actually see

• Ten painted gates - marking the quarter's boundaries at the compass points.
• Around six hundred businesses - restaurants and shops in a few blocks.
• Nikuman from windows - large steamed buns eaten on the street.
• Kanteibyo - a heavily carved and gilded temple to Guan Yu.

When to go

Chinese New Year in January or February; all year otherwise. Half a day.

Honest expectations

Quality varies enormously and the loudest touting is not the best food. All-you-can-eat deals are generally poor. Weekends and New Year are extremely crowded. Prices are higher than comparable food elsewhere in the city.

Nearby

Minato Mirai is north-west; Sankeien garden is south.