Shimanami Kaido

The Shimanami Kaido is an expressway across the Seto Inland Sea, and unusually it was built with a separate lane for bicycles and pedestrians the whole way. From Onomichi in Hiroshima the route hops six islands to Imabari on Shikoku, about seventy kilometres, on quiet island roads linked by bridges that carry you high above channels full of ferries and tankers. The Kurushima Kaikyo bridge at the southern end is a chain of three suspension spans over a strait known for its tidal currents. Blue lines painted on the road do the navigation for you, and rental bikes can be picked up at one end and left at the other.

What you actually see

• Kurushima Kaikyo bridge - three linked suspension spans over a fast tidal strait.
• The island roads - citrus groves, small harbours and almost no traffic between bridges.
• Kirosan viewpoint - a hill above Imabari looking down the whole bridge chain.
• Onomichi waterfront - the short ferry across the first channel and the hillside town behind it.

When to go

Spring and autumn suit a long day in the saddle; July and August are humid and exposed, with very little shade on the bridges. The route works in either direction, though many ride north to south for the wind. Rental bikes go quickly at weekends and holidays, so reserve, and check the last drop-off time at the far terminal.

Honest expectations

Seventy kilometres is a real day of riding, and the spiral ramps up to each bridge add climbing that flat-profile descriptions hide. Standard rental bikes are basic, one-way drop-off costs extra and stock runs out. There is no shelter from wind or rain on the crossings, some island sections share the road with cars, and shops are far apart.

Nearby

Onomichi's temple walk, the art island of Naoshima further east and Matsuyama beyond Imabari.