Koyasan

Koyasan is a monastery town on a forested mountain plateau, founded twelve centuries ago as the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism, and it remains one of the most atmospheric places in Japan to spend a night. Dozens of temples offer shukubo lodging - tatami rooms, vegetarian shojin ryori dinners and dawn prayers with the monks - and the town's masterpiece is Okunoin, Japan's largest cemetery, where a two-kilometre path of moss-covered memorials and stone lanterns leads through giant cedars to the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, the founder, held by tradition to rest there in eternal meditation. Walked at dusk or dawn, lanterns glowing in the mist, it is an experience that outlasts any single sight.

What you actually see

• Okunoin at dawn or dusk - the lantern path through the great cemetery under the cedars.
• A shukubo temple stay - tatami, monastic vegetarian dinner and morning prayers.
• The Danjo Garan complex - the vermilion great pagoda at the mountain's ceremonial heart.
• Kongobu-ji - the head temple, with its painted screens and huge rock garden.

When to go

Late spring through autumn is the comfortable window; November's maples are superb. The mountain sits high enough to be markedly cooler than Osaka - a blessing in summer, and snow-dusted, quiet and cold in winter, when a heated temple room feels earned. Book temple lodging well ahead for weekends and autumn.

Honest expectations

The point of Koyasan is the overnight - day-trippers see temples but miss the dusk cemetery walk and morning prayers that make the place. Temple lodging is simple and not cheap; you are paying for atmosphere and tradition, not hotel comfort, and dinner is vegetarian and early. The Okunoin path asks for quiet respect - it is an active sacred site and family cemetery, not a photo set.

Nearby

Osaka and Nara are each within a couple of hours; the Kumano pilgrimage routes continue south through the same sacred mountains.