Gion Matsuri

Gion Matsuri began in 869 as a rite to end an epidemic and has run, with interruptions, ever since; it belongs to Yasaka Shrine and occupies the whole of July. The floats are the substance. Yamaboko are built each year by neighbourhood associations from stored components, assembled entirely with rope lashing and no nails, some standing twenty-five metres and weighing over ten tonnes, hung with textiles that include imported Persian and Belgian tapestries acquired centuries ago. They are dragged through the streets by teams on the mornings of 17 and 24 July, and turning one at a junction - done by sliding it on wet bamboo - takes many minutes and a crowd. On the three evenings before each procession, the yoiyama, the streets close, the floats are lit, and old merchant houses open their front rooms to show heirlooms. It is UNESCO-registered.

What you actually see

• Nail-free construction - floats assembled with rope lashing and taken apart again each year.
• Twenty-five-metre yamaboko - over ten tonnes, dragged by teams through the streets.
• Junction turns - floats slid round corners on wet bamboo, slowly.
• Yoiyama evenings - lit floats, closed streets and merchant houses showing heirlooms.

When to go

17 and 24 July for the processions; the three evenings before each for yoiyama. Several days.

Honest expectations

July in Kyoto is hot and extremely humid, and the crowds are among the largest in Japan. Accommodation books out months ahead at raised prices. Grandstand seats sell out early. Rain does not stop the procession but makes it miserable.

Nearby

Yasaka Shrine is east; Nishiki market is north of the float districts.