Awa Odori in Tokushima

Awa Odori takes over central Tokushima for four nights in the middle of August. The dancing is done by ren, troupes of anything from a dozen to a hundred, each with its own colours, that move down roped street lanes one after another for hours. The men's style is a low crouching prowl with arms up; the women dance upright in a wide straw hat pulled almost over the eyes, on high wooden clogs, in a tight line. Behind them come shamisen, flutes, gongs and a drum line loud enough to feel in the chest. The rhythm barely changes all night, which is either hypnotic or relentless depending on your tolerance.

What you actually see

• The women's line - amigasa hats and high geta, moving in a narrow file with identical footwork.
• The men's crouch - the low, loose, comic style that gives the festival its edge.
• The musicians - shamisen, flute, gong and taiko pushed to a volume that carries down whole blocks.
• Niwaka ren - the open troupes that pull spectators in to dance without any rehearsal.

When to go

The dates are fixed in mid-August and the city fills completely. Reserved grandstand seats go on sale in advance and sell fast; the free zones need you in place early. Outside the festival, a hall in the city centre runs daily performances all year with a chance to try the steps, which is a reasonable substitute.

Honest expectations

Shikoku in August is hot and humid at ten at night, the crowds are shoulder to shoulder, and accommodation across Tokushima books out months ahead with prices to match, pushing many visitors to sleep in Takamatsu or Naruto. The paid seats are the only way to see the good troupes properly. Four hours of the same rhythm wears some people out.

Nearby

The Naruto whirlpools are an hour north, and the Iya valley lies inland to the west.