The Accompong Maroon Festival

Accompong is the principal Leeward Maroon settlement, sitting on the southern rim of Cockpit Country on land held under the treaty of 1739, and every sixth of January it marks that treaty and the birthday of Cudjoe, the leader who negotiated it. The day begins before dawn with a private ceremony at the Kindah tree, a mango under which the community is said to have gathered, and at the Peace Cave; only Maroons attend those parts. By mid-morning the town is full, with abeng blowing, Kromanti drumming, a procession, speeches, food and sound systems, and thousands of visitors from across the island and abroad.

What you actually see

• The abeng and Kromanti drums - the ceremonial core of the day.
• The Kindah tree - the mango tree at the centre of the community's story.
• The procession - through the town after the private ceremonies.
• Cockpit Country - the karst the community's freedom was won in.

When to go

The sixth of January, every year. Arrive early: the road in is single track and by mid-morning it is blocked. The private ceremonies at dawn are not open to outsiders and should not be intruded on. The public celebration runs from late morning into the night.

Honest expectations

The road to Accompong is narrow and steep and on festival day it becomes gridlocked, with a long walk in from wherever you end up parking. Facilities for the crowd are minimal. The sacred parts of the day are closed and filming them is not acceptable. Outside the sixth of January the village is very quiet and visits should be arranged with the community.

Nearby

Cockpit Country begins here; Y S Falls and Black River are within an hour.