Valtellina

Most alpine valleys run north to south; the Valtellina runs east to west, so one flank faces south all day and has been terraced for vines since at least the Middle Ages. The dry-stone retaining walls total an estimated two and a half thousand kilometres, built and maintained by hand on slopes too steep for machinery, and the wine, made from Nebbiolo called Chiavennasca here, is classified in subzones like Sassella, Grumello and Inferno. Pizzoccheri, a buckwheat pasta cooked with cabbage, potato and Valtellina Casera cheese, is the valley dish. Bresaola, air-dried salted beef, also comes from here.

What you actually see

• The terraced vineyards - thousands of kilometres of dry-stone walls.
• The Nebbiolo subzones - Sassella, Grumello, Inferno and Valgella.
• Pizzoccheri - buckwheat pasta with cabbage, potato and cheese.
• The bresaola - air-dried salted beef cured in the valley.

When to go

May to October for walking the terrace paths; harvest is October and involves carrying grapes by hand or monorail. Winter suits the ski areas at Bormio and Livigno.

Honest expectations

Terrace paths are steep with steps and loose stone. The valley floor is built up and industrial in places. Cellar visits need booking.

Nearby

The Stelvio pass lies east; Lake Como is west.