Siena

Siena is one of the most beautiful medieval cities in Italy, a UNESCO gem of warm brick lanes and Gothic palaces spread over three Tuscan hills. At its heart is the Piazza del Campo, the great shell-shaped square where the wild Palio horse race is run twice each summer, and above it rises a magnificent striped marble cathedral, one of the finest in the country.

History

Siena was first settled in Etruscan times, by a tribe called the Saina, and a Roman town, Saena Iulia, was founded here under Augustus; legend instead makes Senius and Aschius, sons of Remus, its founders, bringing the she-wolf that became the city's symbol and riding the white and black horses behind the Balzana, its black-and-white coat of arms. Sant'Ansano brought Christianity at the end of the 3rd century. After the March of Tuscany broke up on the death of Countess Matilda in 1115, the Republic of Siena emerged in the 12th century and grew rich on wool, trade and banking; the university was founded in 1240, and before the Black Death of 1348 the city had about 50,000 people. The Monte dei Paschi, the oldest bank in the world, has operated continuously since 1472, and on 17 April 1555, after 18 months of resistance, Siena surrendered to Spain, which ended the republic (Wikipedia, Siena).

What to look for

• Piazza del Campo - the great shell-shaped square and its tall tower.
• The cathedral - the striped marble Duomo with its inlaid floor and Piccolomini library.
• The Torre del Mangia - the tower climbed for a view over the city and hills.
• The Palio - the wild bareback horse race run in the square twice each summer.

When to go

Spring to autumn for mild weather; the Palio, run on 2 July and 16 August, is a spectacle but the city is packed. Otherwise it is an easy, lovely day trip from Florence.

Good to know

It is hilly, so expect climbs between the sights. During the Palio it is packed and chaotic, and seeing the race itself takes planning or a paid grandstand seat. It is a popular day trip, so the centre is busy in season.

Nearby

The Val d'Orcia countryside and San Gimignano are nearby; Florence is ninety minutes north.

Key facts