Portovenere
A striped Gothic church on a rock over the sea, at the end of a gulf named after the poets who swam there.
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The church of San Pietro stands on a spur of rock at the tip of the promontory, built in 1198 in black and white banded stone on the site of an earlier temple, with a loggia open to the open sea on one side and the gulf on the other. Below it a cave is called Byron's Grotto: the poet is said to have swum from here across to Lerici to visit Shelley, which gave the Gulf of La Spezia its nickname, the Gulf of Poets. Behind the church rises the Doria castle. Three islands lie offshore, Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto; UNESCO listed the town and islands with the Cinque Terre in 1997.
What you actually see
- San Pietro - a striped Gothic church on a rock above open sea.
- Byron's Grotto - the cave below linked to the poet's swim.
- The Doria castle - a fortress rising behind the town.
- Palmaria island - the largest of three islands just offshore.
When to go
May to September; boats to the islands and along the coast run in the warm months. August is crowded. Winter closes many services in a small town.
Honest expectations
The town is one long street and quickly walked. Parking is difficult and restricted. Island boats depend on the sea state and can be cancelled.
Nearby
The Cinque Terre lie north; Lerici is across the gulf.
What to pack for Portovenere
Chosen from what this place is for. Tap a kit for the full checklist.
Opening times, ticket prices and seasonal closures change - check the official source before you go: official site.