Poitin

Poitin - the word means little pot - was distilled in Ireland long before licensing, and in 1661 a spirits excise made unlicensed distilling illegal, which it remained for three hundred and thirty-six years. It went underground into the mountainous and remote districts, Donegal, Connemara, west Cork and Inishowen in particular, made from barley, potatoes or sugar depending on what was available, and the folklore around evading the excise men is extensive. Legal production was permitted again for export in 1989 and domestically in 1997, and it now holds EU Geographical Indication status, which sets rules on where and how it can be made. Licensed poitin is typically between forty and sixty percent alcohol and is nothing like the illicit product, which was uncontrolled in strength and sometimes contaminated - methanol poisoning from bad batches was a real and documented hazard. Anything offered as home-made carries that risk and should be refused.

What you'll find

• The legal revival - permitted again from 1997 after 336 years of prohibition.
• The GI status - EU rules now defining how it can be made.
• The regional history - Donegal, Connemara, west Cork and Inishowen.
• The strength - typically forty to sixty percent in licensed bottlings.

When to go

Any time; licensed poitin is on sale in off-licences and bars, and several distilleries run tours and tastings.

What to expect

Illicitly made poitin is genuinely dangerous - uncontrolled strength and methanol contamination have caused blindness and deaths, and it should be refused however it is offered. Licensed product is strong; treat it accordingly. The romance around it outruns the quality of much of what is sold.

Nearby

Licensed distilleries with tours operate in Donegal, Galway, Louth and elsewhere.