Dur-Kurigalzu

Dur-Kurigalzu was founded in the fourteenth century BC by a Kassite king as a new royal city, and its ziggurat at Aqar Quf is the most visible ancient monument near Baghdad, a core of mudbrick rising over fifty metres with the distinctive construction of the period clearly exposed: courses of brick separated at intervals by layers of woven reed matting, laid to bind the mass and let moisture escape, and still visible as dark bands running through the tower. Beside it are the excavated temple precinct and the remains of palaces. The ruin has been a landmark on the road west for centuries and appeared on Iraqi currency. It is close enough to Baghdad for a half-day visit and is one of the more accessible major sites in the country.

What you actually see

• The ziggurat core - fifty metres of mudbrick standing above the plain.
• Reed matting layers - the dark bands binding the brick courses.
• The temple precinct - excavated foundations beside the tower.
• Palace remains - the royal quarters of the Kassite city.

When to go

November to March; the site is exposed and Baghdad summers are extreme. Late afternoon gives the best light on the brick courses. It is an easy half-day from the city.

Honest expectations

Climbing the ziggurat is not permitted and the structure is fragile. Interpretation is minimal. The surroundings are semi-industrial and unattractive. Access arrangements for foreign visitors should be checked in advance.

Nearby

Baghdad lies east; Al-Ukhaidir is southwest beyond Karbala.