Alqosh

Alqosh sits at the foot of a limestone escarpment on the northern edge of the Nineveh Plains, an Assyrian Christian town whose people speak a Neo-Aramaic language descended from the Aramaic of antiquity. In the middle of the town stands a building traditionally identified as the tomb of the prophet Nahum, which was a Jewish pilgrimage site for centuries until the Jewish community of Iraq left in the mid-twentieth century; the structure fell into ruin and has been the subject of a substantial international restoration project completed in recent years. Above the town, reached by a road up the cliff, is Rabban Hormizd monastery. The old streets, stone houses and the escarpment behind make the town itself worth walking.

What you actually see

• The tomb of Nahum - the restored shrine in the centre of the town.
• Stone streets - the old quarter under the escarpment.
• The cliff above - the limestone wall with the monastery on it.
• A living Aramaic-speaking town - the language still in daily use.

When to go

March to May for green hills and wildflowers, September to November for settled weather. Christian festivals bring the town alive. Summer on the plain is very hot.

Honest expectations

Access to the Nahum shrine may need arranging through the church or the restoration team. The town is ordinary in parts and the sights are few. Current access advice for the Nineveh Plains is worth checking before travelling.

Nearby

Rabban Hormizd monastery is directly above; Lalish lies north.