Al-Kadhimiya Shrine

The Kadhimiya shrine holds the tombs of two imams, Musa al-Kadhim and his grandson Muhammad al-Jawad, and it is unusual in form because of that: two burial chambers side by side under twin gold domes, with four gold minarets at the corners, set in a courtyard of tiled iwans. The present building is largely of the sixteenth century and later, rebuilt and extended many times. Around it the Kadhimiya quarter is a distinct part of Baghdad, with a covered market of goldsmiths, booksellers and pilgrimage goods leading up to the gates, and a long tradition as a place of study. The shrine is one of the most visited places in the capital and the quarter is busiest in the evening.

What you actually see

• Twin gold domes - the doubled sanctuary over two imams' tombs.
• Four gold minarets - the corner towers around the courtyard.
• Tiled iwans - the glazed facades enclosing the open court.
• The Kadhimiya market - goldsmiths and pilgrimage goods at the gates.

When to go

November to March; Baghdad summers are extreme. Evenings are cooler and the shrine is lit. Religious dates fill the quarter completely and movement becomes difficult.

Honest expectations

Modest dress is required and enforced, and phones and cameras are usually left at the gate. Non-Muslim access to inner areas varies and may be refused. Security screening is thorough. The quarter is crowded and traffic around it is heavy.

Nearby

Central Baghdad lies south; the Tigris runs east of the quarter.