Togean Islands

The Togeans lie in the middle of the Gulf of Tomini, between the arms of Sulawesi, and they are hard enough to reach that they have stayed quiet. Ferries run on their own schedule from Ampana on the mainland or overnight from Gorontalo, and from the port of Wakai you take another boat to whichever island your guesthouse is on. Once there the routine is simple: reef snorkelling, boat trips to a saltwater lake full of stingless jellyfish, walks over coral rock, and long afternoons. Bajau communities live in villages built on stilts over the shallows. Accommodation is bungalows on stilts, usually with meals included because there is nowhere else to eat.

What you actually see

• The jellyfish lake - a landlocked saltwater lake where stingless jellyfish gather near the surface.
• The reefs - fringing and barrier reef around the islands, snorkelled straight from the bungalows.
• Bajau stilt villages - settlements built over the shallows, reached by boat.
• Kadidiri - the island where most guesthouses and dive operations are based.

When to go

March to October is calmer and clearer; crossings in rough weather are unpleasant and sometimes cancelled. Ferry timetables are limited and do not run daily on every route, so build slack into the plan. Nobody comes here for two nights: the travel time only makes sense if you stay the better part of a week.

Honest expectations

This is genuinely remote travel. Power often runs on a generator for a few hours in the evening, there is little or no signal, and there are no cash machines, so bring enough money for the whole stay. Ferries are slow, crowded and change without notice. Malaria precautions are worth discussing before you go. Rooms are basic and insects are part of the deal.

Nearby

Ampana on the mainland, and the road east towards Luwuk or west to Poso.