Pasar Badung

Pasar Badung is where Bali actually shops, sitting on the river in the middle of Denpasar and rebuilt after a fire, now spread over several floors with produce at the bottom and cloth, ceremonial goods and kitchenware above. The ground level is fruit, vegetables, spice pastes ground to order and stacks of banana leaf. A whole section deals in offerings, the small palm trays of flowers and rice that Balinese households set out several times a day, sold ready-made by the dozen. Meat and fish sit at the back. Across the river the Kumbasari market handles textiles and carving. Trading starts well before dawn.

What you actually see

• The offerings section - palm trays of flowers and rice sold ready-made by the dozen.
• Ground-floor produce - fruit, vegetables and spice pastes ground while you wait.
• The upper floors - cloth, ceremonial dress and kitchen equipment.
• Kumbasari across the river - textiles, carving and souvenirs in the neighbouring market.

When to go

Come between five and eight in the morning, when the market is fullest and coolest and deliveries are still arriving. By midday the produce floor is picked over and the heat inside is heavy. The busiest days come before temple ceremonies, when the offerings section is three deep. It trades seven days a week.

Honest expectations

Guides attach themselves at the entrance and are hard to shake without a firm no, and the fee they name at the end is usually more than was agreed. Prices quoted to foreigners are inflated and bargaining is expected. The meat and fish floor smells strongly and the floor underfoot is wet. Traffic and parking around the market are difficult.

Nearby

The Bali museum and the main city temple stand a few streets to the east.