Nyepi, Bali's Day of Silence

Nyepi marks the Balinese saka new year and is observed by the whole island at once. For twenty-four hours nobody works, travels, lights a fire or goes outside. The airport shuts, the streets are empty and traditional wardens called pecalang keep them that way. Hotels ask guests to stay indoors with curtains drawn and lights low, and staff numbers are cut to a minimum. The night before is the opposite: villages carry ogoh-ogoh, huge papier-mache figures built over weeks by youth groups, through the streets with gamelan and torches, spin them at crossroads to confuse spirits, and burn or dismantle them afterwards.

What you'll find

• Ogoh-ogoh parades - towering effigies carried through the villages the night before.
• The empty roads - an entire island without traffic for a full day.
• A night without lights - the darkest sky Bali gets, when the weather allows.
• Melasti processions - purification walks down to the sea in the days beforehand.

When to go

The date moves with the saka calendar and usually falls in March, so check the year before booking anything. Arrive at least two days early: no flights land or leave for twenty-four hours and there is no transport to a hotel. The ogoh-ogoh parades happen on the eve, from late afternoon into the night.

Before you go

You are confined to your accommodation for a full day, and if that is a small room without a garden it is a long one. Places to eat outside hotels are shut, so buy food beforehand. Beaches are off limits and the rules are enforced by patrols. Anyone on a tight schedule will find the airport closure a real problem rather than a curiosity.

Nearby

Effigy building can be watched in village halls across the island for weeks beforehand.