Jimbaran

Jimbaran is a bay on the neck of the Bukit peninsula with a working fishing fleet, and the routine runs in two halves. In the early morning the Kedonganan fish market at the northern end sells the night's catch off the boats - snapper, mahi mahi, prawns, squid, clams - loud, wet and finished by mid-morning. In the evening the beach warung set out tables directly on the sand and grill fish over coconut husk charcoal with a sambal matah or garlic butter baste, sold by weight, with sunset over the water and aircraft on approach to the airport passing low overhead. The two ends of the bay differ: the warung strip at the southern end is the famous one and the more expensive, while the market end is cheaper and rougher.

What you actually see

• A morning fish market - the night's catch sold off the boats at Kedonganan.
• Grilling over coconut husk - the charcoal the beach warung cook on.
• Tables on the sand - dinner set out on the beach at sunset.
• Aircraft overhead - the airport approach passing low across the bay.

When to go

April to October; early morning for the market, sunset for the grills. An evening.

Honest expectations

Prices are by weight and are quoted high to visitors - agree the weight and price before ordering. The famous southern strip is significantly more expensive than the market end.

Nearby

Uluwatu and the Bukit are south; the airport and Kuta are north.