Bawomataluo and the Stone Villages of Nias

Bawomataluo stands on a ridge in South Nias and is reached by climbing a long flight of stone steps from the valley. At the top, a broad avenue paved in stone runs between two rows of traditional houses raised on massive timber piles, their steep roofs and rounded gables joined without nails. The largest is the chief's house at the head of the avenue, its interior dark and heavy with carved beams. In front of the houses stand stone tables, seats and pillars, some carved, set out for gatherings and displays of standing. One of the pillars is the jumping stone used in fahombo, the leap young men once trained for.

What you actually see

• The stone stairway - the long climb from the valley up to the ridge.
• The paved avenue - the stone street between two rows of pile-built houses.
• The chief's house - the largest omo hada, with carved beams and a dark interior.
• The jumping stone - the stone pillar used in the fahombo leap.

When to go

Nias sees rain in most months, with the drier stretch roughly February to August, while the surf season on the nearby coast peaks around the middle of the year. Mornings suit the climb and the light along the avenue. Stone jumping is performed on request for a fee rather than to a schedule, so arrange it through a guide or the village if you want to see it.

Honest expectations

Reaching Nias takes a flight and a long drive, and the road south is slow. The village is lived in, and visitors are steered toward donations, house visits and paid photographs, with the stone jumping now a staged performance rather than something you happen upon. Some of the old houses are in poor repair. Expect children asking for money and a lot of attention throughout.

Nearby

The surf beaches at Sorake and Lagundri are half an hour away; other stone villages such as Hilisimaetano lie along the same roads.