Vaishno Devi

The shrine lies in a cave at about 1,585 metres in the Trikuta hills, where three natural rock formations called the pindies are venerated as the goddess. Pilgrims register at Katra and climb roughly twelve kilometres on a paved path, on foot, by pony, in a palanquin or by helicopter to a point near the top, walking through the night in large numbers. Around ten million people make the journey each year, which makes it one of the most visited religious sites in India. The old cave, narrow and low, is opened only when numbers permit; most enter through wider tunnels cut later.

What you actually see

• The cave shrine - three rock formations venerated as the goddess.
• The twelve-kilometre climb - a paved path with pilgrims day and night.
• Bhairon temple - the shrine higher up that pilgrims visit after.
• The scale - around ten million visitors annually on one path.

When to go

March to October; Navratri in spring and autumn brings the largest crowds. Summer is hot on the lower path, and winter can bring snow at the top. Nights are common for the climb, being cooler.

Honest expectations

Registration is compulsory and numbers are capped at busy times. The climb is long and crowded, with ponies on the same path. Bags, phones and cameras are restricted near the shrine, and queues for darshan run for hours.

Nearby

Katra is the base town; Jammu lies south.