Pahalgam

Pahalgam sits at about 2,200 metres where the East and West Lidder streams meet, surrounded by pine and fir with meadows above; the name means village of shepherds, which is what it was before it became a hill resort. Side valleys run up from it: Aru, a meadow hamlet and trailhead; Betaab, named after a film shot there; and Chandanwari, the road head for the Amarnath pilgrimage, which passes through Pahalgam each summer. Trout fishing is licensed on the Lidder, pony trips run to the meadows, and the town is the base for treks toward Kolahoi glacier and the Sind valley.

What you actually see

• The Lidder confluence - two streams meeting below the town.
• Aru and Betaab valleys - meadow hamlets up the side valleys.
• The trout river - licensed fishing on the Lidder.
• The trek routes - paths toward Kolahoi glacier and the high meadows.

When to go

April to October; meadows are greenest from May to August, and autumn brings colour. Winter brings snow and much reduced services. The Amarnath pilgrimage in summer fills the town and roads.

Honest expectations

Pony operators and guides are heavily unionised with fixed high rates, and pressure to hire is constant. Vehicles are restricted in some side valleys, requiring ponies or local taxis. Peak season is crowded.

Nearby

Srinagar lies northwest; Sonamarg is north.