Sonepur Cattle Fair

The fair at Sonepur begins on Kartik Purnima, in November or December, when pilgrims bathe at the confluence of the Ganges and Gandak, and it runs for around a month, historically as the largest livestock market in Asia: horses, cattle, buffalo, camels, birds and, until they were banned, elephants traded on a scale that drew buyers from across northern India. Its elephant market was the emblem of the fair and ended with wildlife protection law. What remains is a large fair of horses and cattle, bird and craft stalls, theatre tents, wrestling and a wide temporary town on the sands, considerably smaller than it once was.

What you actually see

• The horse and cattle lines - the surviving core of the livestock trade.
• The confluence bathing - pilgrims at the Ganges and Gandak on Kartik Purnima.
• The stall town - a temporary fair of crafts, food and entertainment.
• The Hariharnath temple - the shrine at the fair site.

When to go

November to December, starting on Kartik Purnima; the first days around the bathing are the busiest and most photographed. The fair thins considerably over the following weeks.

Honest expectations

The elephant trade that made the fair famous has been illegal for years and is gone. Animal welfare conditions at the fair draw sustained criticism. Facilities are basic and crowds dense on the opening days.

Nearby

Patna lies south across the river; Vaishali is north.