Shillong

Shillong sits at about 1,500 metres on the Khasi plateau, pine-covered and rolling, which produced the Scotland of the East comparison in the colonial period when it served as the capital of Assam. It is a Khasi city, matrilineal in social structure, with a large Christian population and a musical culture unusual in India: rock and blues have deep roots here, choirs are widespread, and the city produces a steady stream of bands. Ward's Lake, Police Bazaar, the Don Bosco Museum of northeast cultures and Shillong Peak, the highest point, are the fixed stops. Elephant Falls lies just outside.

What you actually see

• The pine hills - rolling plateau country around the city.
• The music scene - a rock and choral culture unusual in India.
• Don Bosco Museum - a large collection on northeast Indian cultures.
• Ward's Lake and Police Bazaar - the central park and market area.

When to go

September to May; October and November are clearest. The monsoon is heavy though less extreme than Cherrapunji. The Cherry Blossom Festival in November is a fixture.

Honest expectations

Traffic congestion in the centre is severe. Shillong Peak is a military area with restricted access and identification checks. The road from Guwahati is slow and busy.

Nearby

Cherrapunji lies south; Umiam Lake is north.