Satpura National Park

Satpura covers rugged country of gorges, sandstone ridges and deep forest along the Denwa river, and because tiger density is lower than at Kanha or Bandhavgarh the park permits activities the busier reserves do not: guided walking safaris on foot with an armed forest guard, canoeing on the Denwa backwaters, and boat approaches to the core, alongside conventional jeep drives. That changes the experience from tiger-spotting to being in the forest: sloth bear, gaur, the Indian giant squirrel, leopard and a long bird and butterfly list are the usual sightings, with tigers an occasional bonus.

What you actually see

• The walking safaris - guided walks on foot, rare in Indian tiger reserves.
• The canoe trips - paddling the Denwa backwaters at dawn.
• The sloth bears - a good population in the rocky terrain.
• The gorges and ridges - sandstone country unlike the flatter reserves.

When to go

October to June; the park closes in the monsoon. Walking and canoeing run in the cooler months and are curtailed in peak heat. Winter mornings on the water are cold.

Honest expectations

Tiger sightings are much less likely than at the famous reserves; anyone coming primarily for tigers should go elsewhere. Walking safaris are limited in number and book out. Access is via a boat crossing at Madhai.

Nearby

Pachmarhi lies east; Bhopal is northwest.