Ranikhet

Ranikhet has been a cantonment since 1869 and remains the regimental centre of the Kumaon Regiment, which is why it looks unlike other Indian hill stations: the army owns most of the land, so building is restricted, the forest of pine, deodar and oak is intact, and the town is quiet and low-rise with long stretches of empty road. Chaubatia orchards grow apples, apricots and plums on the slopes with a government garden open to visit. Jhula Devi temple is hung with thousands of bells left by petitioners, and a golf course, one of the highest in Asia, occupies a meadow at Upat.

What you actually see

• The cantonment forest - deodar and pine kept intact by military land control.
• Jhula Devi temple - thousands of bells hung by petitioners.
• Chaubatia orchards - apple and stone fruit gardens on the slopes.
• The Upat golf course - a high meadow course above the town.

When to go

March to June and September to November; apples ripen in late summer and autumn. The monsoon brings landslides. Winter is cold, quiet and occasionally snowy, with the clearest peaks.

Honest expectations

Much of the land is military and off limits, with restrictions on photography in places. The town is deliberately quiet, with little nightlife or dining. Himalayan views need clear weather.

Nearby

Almora lies east; Nainital is south.