Gokarna

Gokarna is an old pilgrimage town on the Karnataka coast, its Mahabaleshwar temple holding the atma linga of the Ravana story and drawing pilgrims independently of any beach tourism. Behind the town runs a sequence of beaches separated by rocky headlands: Kudle, Om, shaped like the syllable in two joined crescents, Half Moon and Paradise, reached by a cliff path walked in an hour or two or by boat. The combination of a working temple town and a quiet beach strip is what distinguishes it from Goa, though development has grown steadily and the beaches are no longer empty.

What you actually see

• The Mahabaleshwar temple - the pilgrimage shrine in the town.
• Om beach - two joined crescents forming the shape of the syllable.
• The cliff path - the walk over headlands linking the beaches.
• The town streets - a working pilgrimage town rather than a resort.

When to go

November to February for dry calm weather; the monsoon from June to September is very heavy and most beach shacks close. March to May is hot and humid.

Honest expectations

The sea has strong currents and drownings occur; there are no lifeguards. Beach accommodation is basic and closes in the monsoon. Nudity and drug use draw police attention and are not tolerated.

Nearby

Murudeshwar lies south; Goa is north.