Lonsoraefi

Lonsoraefi is the country behind Lon, inland from the coast between Hofn and Djupivogur, and it is the eastern equivalent of Landmannalaugar in geology without any of the traffic: rhyolite hills in ochre, red and green, cut by canyons and glacial rivers, with the Vatnajokull margin behind. The classic route walks from Stafafell up through Kollumuli and Vididalur over four to six days, staying in huts. Access by vehicle means F980 to Illikambur, a track with a reputation. It was protected as a nature reserve in 1977. There is no shop, fuel or reliable signal anywhere in the area.

What you actually see

• Rhyolite in ochre and red - the same colour geology as Landmannalaugar.
• Canyons and glacial rivers - the ground the routes have to cross.
• A four to six day traverse - Stafafell to Kollumuli and beyond, hut to hut.
• A reserve since 1977 - protected and deliberately undeveloped.

When to go

July to August, the short window when the rivers and tracks allow it. Several days.

Honest expectations

This is unmarked wilderness walking with unbridged rivers that can stop a party for a day; it needs experience, a map and self-sufficiency. Huts must be booked and carry no supplies. F980 has a genuinely difficult crossing. Rescue is far away.

Nearby

Hofn is on the coast south; Eystrahorn stands on the way there.