Boldogko Castle

Boldogko was built in the thirteenth century after the Mongol invasion on a spine of rhyolite above the Hernad valley in the Zemplen hills, and it uses the rock directly: walls rise straight from outcrops, rooms sit on natural terraces, and the outer bailey follows the ridge. It was never taken by the Ottomans, was blown up on Habsburg orders in the eighteenth century like most Hungarian inland castles, and has been partly rebuilt with a small museum, a chapel and a restaurant in the lower ward. Petofi stayed here in 1847 and wrote a poem on the terrace, which is the association most Hungarians bring with them. The view runs north toward Tokaj's hills.

What you actually see

• Walls rising from rhyolite outcrops - the castle built onto the rock.
• The Hernad valley view - the country north toward the Zemplen.
• The Petofi terrace - where the poet wrote in 1847.
• The rebuilt lower ward - museum, chapel and restaurant inside the walls.

When to go

April to October; ice makes the ridge walk risky in winter. Two hours including the climb of about fifteen minutes. Weekends bring family crowds and events.

Honest expectations

The climb is steep with loose steps in places. Reconstruction in the lower ward is modern and functional rather than sympathetic. The museum is small. The village has few services.

Nearby

Fuzer is north-east; Tokaj lies south-east.