La Ceiba

La Ceiba grew as a banana port and remains the hinge of the north coast: ferries to Roatán and Utila leave from here, Pico Bonito rises directly behind the city, and the Cangrejal valley runs up into it. The city itself is hot, loud and not conventionally attractive, but it has the country's biggest carnival in May, a lively Zona Viva along the beach road, and a Garífuna presence that shapes the food and the music.

What you actually see

• The ferry terminal - departures for Roatan and Utila, the reason most people pass through.
• The Carnaval de La Ceiba - the country's biggest street carnival, in May.
• The Zona Viva - the bar and restaurant strip along the beachfront.
• The mountain backdrop - Pico Bonito rising steeply straight behind the city.

When to go

February to May is the driest window and takes in the May carnival, which is the city at its loudest. September to January is wet on this coast. The ferry runs year-round but crossings are rough in norte winds.

Honest expectations

The city beach is not good and swimming near town is not advisable. La Ceiba is a transit point for most visitors rather than a destination in itself. The carnival is enormous and accommodation must be booked well ahead.

Nearby

Pico Bonito and the Cangrejal valley are directly behind, and Cuero y Salado is west along the coast.