Skyros

Skyros is the largest and least visited of the Sporades, and geologically two islands joined: a northern half of pine forest and beaches, and a southern half of bare mountain, cliffs and stone, almost empty except for goats. The Chora climbs a rock beneath a Byzantine and Venetian castle and the monastery of Agios Georgios, its whitewashed houses stacked in a way that looks Cycladic rather than Sporadic, with interiors traditionally crowded with carved furniture, embroidery and hanging ceramics. The Skyrian horse, a rare miniature breed standing about a metre high, survives here in small numbers and is bred at a few farms. Beaches run along the northeast, Molos, Magazia, Atsitsa, and Eleonora's falcons breed on the southern cliffs and offshore islets.

What you actually see

• The Chora - white houses under a castle rock, with traditional interiors.
• The Skyrian horses - the island's rare miniature breed at local farms.
• The bare south - a stony wilderness of cliffs and goat tracks.
• The northern beaches - Magazia, Molos and the pine-backed coves.

When to go

May, June and September for warm sea and space; the island is genuinely quiet outside July and August. Winter ferries are cut back and the crossing from Kymi is weather-dependent.

Honest expectations

Getting there takes effort: a long drive to Kymi plus a two-hour boat, or a small plane. A car or scooter is needed, as the two halves of the island are far apart. Southern Skyros has almost no facilities.

Nearby

Kymi on Evia is the mainland ferry port; the other Sporades are reached by longer connections.