Ikaria

Ikaria is a long spine of granite and schist rising to over a thousand metres, with villages scattered in folds of the mountains and a reputation, examined by demographers in the 2000s, for an unusually high proportion of residents living past ninety; the explanations offered include diet, daily walking on steep ground, herbal teas, afternoon naps and strong social ties. The hot springs at Therma and Lefkada are among the most radioactive in the world, used since Roman times for arthritis and skin conditions. The panigiria, village saint's-day festivals, are the island's other institution: they begin late, run until dawn, involve communal food and the Ikariotikos dance, and are genuinely local occasions rather than performances. The north coast beaches, Nas, Seychelles, Livadi, lie below cliffs.

What you actually see

• The thermal springs - radon-rich hot water at Therma and Lefkada.
• The panigiria - all-night village festivals through the summer months.
• The mountain villages - dispersed settlements in the folds of the island.
• The north coast beaches - Nas below its ruined temple, Seychelles and Livadi.

When to go

May, June and September for walking and swimming; July and August for the festival calendar, when most panigiria fall. Winter is wet and windy, and ferries are often cancelled.

Honest expectations

Roads are steep, winding and slow, and a car is essential. Timekeeping on Ikaria is famously loose, which visitors find charming or infuriating. Ferries are long and weather-dependent, and beaches are pebble with strong currents in places.

Nearby

Samos lies east, Fourni is a short boat ride, and Mykonos connects on some ferry lines.