Apatou

Apatou sits on the French bank of the Maroni upstream of Saint-Laurent, a commune of the Aluku, one of the Maroon peoples descended from escaped slaves who built free societies along this river, and until the road arrived in 2010 everything moved by pirogue. The riverfront is still the town's real main street, with boats running up and down and Suriname on the far bank. Carved and painted tembe work decorates doors and boats.

What you actually see

• The Maroni riverfront - pirogues working the river that was the only road.
• The Aluku commune - one of the Maroon societies of the river.
• The tembe art - the carved and painted geometric work on doors and boats.
• The far bank - Suriname directly across the water.

When to go

July to November is the dry season and the river is easier. The wet season peaks April to June and swells the river. Pirogue travel runs year round.

Honest expectations

There is no tourist infrastructure to speak of and visits are about the river and the town rather than sights. Photography of people needs asking. River trips must be negotiated with boatmen directly.

Nearby

Saint-Laurent is downstream, and Papaïchton is far upstream.