L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

The Sorgue splits around the town into arms that once powered a working industry: silk throwing, paper, oil and wool mills used the current, and about a dozen large mossy waterwheels survive turning slowly in the channels, kept as ornament rather than power. Since the 1960s the town has become one of the largest antiques centres in Europe after Paris and London, with several permanent villages of dealers and around three hundred traders; the Sunday market spreads through the streets and along the water, and two big international fairs run at Easter and in August. The river is cold and clear because it comes from the spring at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse.

What you actually see

• The mossy waterwheels - about a dozen wheels turning in the channels.
• The antiques villages - permanent dealer complexes across the town.
• The Sunday market - food and brocante through the streets and quays.
• The clear Sorgue - cold spring water running around the islands.

When to go

Sunday is the day, when both the market and most antiques dealers are open; many close Tuesday to Thursday. The big fairs fall at Easter and mid-August and are extremely busy.

Honest expectations

Outside Sunday and fair weekends a good share of the antiques shops are shut. Sunday parking is very difficult. Prices are dealer prices, not flea market ones.

Nearby

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse lies east; Avignon is west.