The Tigray Rock Churches

Scattered across the Gheralta escarpment and the hills around it are more than a hundred churches hewn from solid rock, many older than Lalibela and quite different in character: rather than being carved down from the surface, most were cut into cliff faces, often in positions that are difficult to reach on purpose. Abuna Yemata Guh is the famous one, requiring a barefoot rock climb up a sandstone face, a traverse along a ledge and a crossing above a substantial drop, with painted ceilings and manuscripts waiting inside. Others, like Debre Damo, are reached by climbing a leather rope up a cliff. The interiors hold carved columns, painted ceilings and centuries-old service books still in use.

What you actually see

• Abuna Yemata Guh - the cliff-face church reached by a barefoot climb and ledge traverse.
• Maryam Korkor and Daniel Korkor - a pairing on the Gheralta plateau with painted interiors.
• Debre Damo - a monastery reached by climbing a leather rope up a cliff, men only.
• The Gheralta landscape - sandstone towers and escarpments across the plain.

When to go

October to March, the dry season, when the rock is dry and the climbs are safest. It is hot in the middle of the day on exposed sandstone, so start early.

Honest expectations

Some of these churches involve genuine exposed climbing with no equipment beyond a local helper's hand, and people have been injured; if you are uneasy with heights, choose the accessible ones instead and do not be talked into a climb. Debre Damo admits men only, by long tradition. Priests hold the keys and are not always present, so a guide and patience matter. Entry fees are charged per church and add up.

Nearby

Axum is west; Mekele is the regional city to the south.