Asmara

Asmara, the capital of Eritrea, sits high on a cool highland plateau and is one of the most remarkable and unexpected cities in Africa, a UNESCO World Heritage site celebrated as an exceptionally complete example of early twentieth-century Modernist architecture. Built up in the 1930s, its palm-lined avenues are lined with streamlined Art Deco cinemas, elegant villas, cafés and a famous futurist petrol station shaped like an aeroplane, giving the city the nickname of a Modernist dream frozen in time. Relaxed, walkable and famed for its café culture, gentle climate and easygoing charm, Asmara is a genuinely unique living museum of design and one of Africa's most surprising urban gems.

History

According to Tigrinya oral tradition, four clans on the Kebessa plateau, often raided from the lowlands, united at the urging of their women, hence the name Arbate Asmera, the four made them unite; the town is first mentioned in a Latin itinerary of the reign of Emperor Dawit I (1382-1411). It grew in importance in the late 19th century as the capital of the Bahr Negash, was occupied by Italy in 1889 and made the capital of Italian Eritrea by Governor Ferdinando Martini in 1897, and the railway to the coast followed in the early 20th century. By 1939 Asmara had 98,000 people, 53,000 of them Italian, and Europeans used it to experiment with radical new designs, leaving more than 400 buildings of Italian origin; in July 2017 UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site as an exceptional example of early modernist urbanism (Wikipedia, Asmara).

What you'll find

• The Fiat Tagliero - the famous aeroplane-shaped futurist petrol station.
• The Art Deco cinemas - the streamlined 1930s cinemas and cafés.
• The palm avenues - the elegant boulevards and villas.
• The café culture - the relaxed espresso bars of the city.

When to go

October to March brings mild, dry and pleasant weather to the high plateau, ideal for strolling the boulevards and enjoying the café culture; Asmara's altitude keeps it temperate year-round, though the summer months bring some rain. The clear highland light flatters the Modernist facades beautifully.

Before you go

Asmara is a relaxed, low-key city whose appeal is its extraordinary architectural ensemble, café culture and atmosphere rather than blockbuster monuments, and its gentle pace suits unhurried wandering. As a UNESCO World Heritage showcase of Modernist design unlike anywhere else, a living museum of streamlined 1930s architecture, though, Asmara is a genuinely unique and delightful city.

Nearby

The dramatic escarpment road down towards Massawa lies beyond the plateau.

Key facts