Tombs of the Nobles

Several hundred tombs of officials, priests, scribes and overseers are cut into the hillsides of the west bank, mainly at Sheikh Abd el-Qurna, and they differ from the royal tombs in a way that makes them the more interesting to many visitors: instead of the underworld texts and divine journeys of the kings, they are painted with the world the owners actually lived in. Rekhmire's tomb shows craftsmen at work in extraordinary detail, Nakht's shows harvest, hunting and a group of musicians, Menna's shows agriculture and surveying, Sennefer's ceiling is painted with a vine trellis over the whole chamber. Tickets are sold in groups covering two or three tombs at a time, and which are open changes. The hillsides also hold the old Qurna village, now largely cleared.

What you actually see

• Rekhmire's workshop scenes - craftsmen at work in unusual detail.
• Nakht's musicians and harvest - one of the best known painted chambers.
• Sennefer's vine ceiling - a painted trellis over the whole tomb.
• Menna's farming scenes - surveying, threshing and field work.

When to go

October to April. Half a day to see several clusters properly. Mornings are cooler for walking between the hills. These tombs are far quieter than the Valley of the Kings.

Honest expectations

Ticketing is confusing: tombs are grouped and sold separately, and which groups are open changes without notice. The chambers are small and hot with poor ventilation. Photography rules vary by tomb. Getting between clusters means walking uphill in the sun or repeated taxi hops.

Nearby

The Ramesseum is below the hill; Deir el-Bahari lies north along the cliff.