Temple of Seti I at Qurna

Seti I began this mortuary temple in the thirteenth century BC and Ramesses II finished it, and it sits at the northern end of the west bank monuments, away from the main circuit, which is why it is generally deserted. The front pylons and courts are gone but the hypostyle hall and the sanctuaries survive, and the relief carving in them is of the same high quality as Seti's work at Abydos, cut in shallow raised relief with fine internal detail. A chapel dedicated to Ramesses I, Seti's father, who reigned briefly and had no temple of his own, stands at one side. The setting is quiet, with fields on one side and the desert hills on the other, and the absence of crowds makes it one of the more restful sites in Thebes.

What you actually see

• Seti I's raised relief - the same fine carving as his temple at Abydos.
• The hypostyle hall - columns and roof surviving at the temple core.
• A chapel for Ramesses I - a shrine for a king with no temple of his own.
• An empty site - almost no other visitors at any hour.

When to go

October to April. One hour. Any time of day, since crowds are not a factor; morning light suits the reliefs. It fits naturally at the start or end of a west bank day.

Honest expectations

The front of the temple is gone, so the approach is over open ground with little to see until the hall. Most tours skip it entirely and taxi drivers may need persuading. Interpretation is minimal. There is no shade outside the hall.

Nearby

The Valley of the Kings road is west; the ferry landing is a short drive east.